It’s All About the Angle!

I recently had the opportunity to ride in a clinic with Classical Dressage instructor Georges Malleroni at the lovely Kennebec Morgan Farm in Woolwich, ME.  I choose my clinics wisely nowadays, and have greatly enjoyed the two lessons I have had with this fellow.  I find that right after a clinic or a successful lesson, my mind is often a jumble, and if someone asked me what I learned, I’d be hard pressed to tell them.  It is usually only after a little while, and some more rides that the lesson emerges.  The best lessons can often be expressed in a few concise words or concepts, and I either experience it while riding in the clinic, or during a later ride.  In this clinic, my “aha!” moment was while riding.

We were working on improving the symmetry and straightness of my horse Gabe, and I was struggling to consistently get the elusive feeling of lightness and energy that emerges when your horse is truly straight.  We were working on very slow precise steps of shoulder in, which some may know, I am a big fan of as a very helpful movement.  Then Georges stated emphatically, “It’s all about the angle, a little more or a little less, there is nothing. You have to get it just right for it to work.”  This was my “aha!” moment.  While schooling the shoulder in, there would be moments where it all felt right, and Gabe was light and forward – as if he switched into a higher gear, and I felt perfectly balanced and quiet, but it was hard for me to understand why those moments happened when they did.  But then Georges told me – “It’s all about the angle.”  And of course, he was right.  When I rode Gabe at a specific angle in relation to the arena wall, it allowed his inside hind to step under and engage in a very productive way which was just not possible at “a little more, or a little less” of an angle.  Of course, he also had to be straight through his body, my timing had to be on, and the angle of my body also had to be correct.  But what it really came down to was the angle…

This comment “It’s all about the angle,” resonated with me so greatly because it is something I say to my students a lot also, about about their body position when doing groundwork with their horse.  When the human’s body position and the horse’s body position combine to create a correct maneuver, that is when we get moments of true lightness and clarity, whether we are mounted or on the ground.  I liken it to watching a Border Collie move a herd of sheep.  There is a very precise position where the dogs presence causes the herd to move – a very precise angle of dog in relation to the herd.  At that point, the energy of the herd of sheep is fluid and they move as one, any more, or any less and there is chaos.

When working on the ground with your horse, whether it is with a rope halter and lead, or a lunge line, or long lines, pay attention to the angle of your shoulders in relation to your horse.  I find that most behavioral or movement problems when using any of these tools can be corrected by adjusting the angle of your shoulders.  I tell my students to imagine “lightsabers” extending from their shoulders out in a straight line towards their horse.  Your body should be parallel to your horses when they are circling you – i.e you should be facing their belly.  Think of this position as “neutral.” From that position, you can then alter the angle of your body to influence their movement.  If you want them to halt or slow down, you can close your  leading shoulder – i.e swing your shoulder that is closest to their head gently towards them.  By doing that, you are essentially closing an energetic door in front of them and they will respond accordingly.  If your horse does not want to go forward while circling you, check that shoulder. Often, it is not open, so your energy is telling them to not go.

Your other shoulder (the one closest to the rear of the horse)  acts mostly as a driving aid.  If you want your horse to turn and face you, or step under with their inside hind, or disengage their hindquarters, or whatever you want to call it, close that shoulder.  Meaning, bring that driving shoulder towards their hind end – your body should become more perpendicular to theirs if you do that.  If your horse is turning and facing you when you don’t want them to, check the angle of that shoulder, usually therein lies the problem.   If you imagine the lightsabers extending from each shoulder, your horse should stay within the angle made.  Adjust the angle to change their position.

The combination of your correct angle and theirs is synergistic – it creates an energy that is greater than that of just you and your horse.  Perhaps this sounds complicated, but once you feel it, the simplicity of it becomes apparent.   And that is precisely it. It all makes sense once you feel it.  When you have the angle right, your horse will move off of your body cues lightly and effortlessly and it begins to feel like dancing.

Breathe Deep, Center Yourself, Stay Soft and Ride!

 

Previously, I listed three key ingredients that I feel are important to develop as a rider.  We have discussed the importance of straightness, and now it is time to focus on the value of breathing properly, and the development and use of ones “core.”  When I use the term “core,”  I’m not talking about developing a six pack, or the need to have super strong abs.  Some “traditional” core strength is very helpful, but my focus in this article will be on developing your core energetically.  Learning to release tension in your body and breathe more effectively will make a HUGE difference in the quality of communication you have with your horse – whether you are riding, or working with them on the ground.  It will also improve every other aspect of your life.  This may sound grandiose and abstract, but it really isn’t.  The quality of energy, centering and breathing that is beneficial in horsemanship can be learned through many traditional martial arts techniques – and there are many books, videos, and clinics out there now that make that very connection.  Two of my favorite trainers and writers have really focused on this connection.  Mark Rashid, noted natural horsemanship trainer, has integrated Aikido principles into his teaching, and I recommend you read some of his books, attend a clinic, and/or watch some of his videos on the subject.  Mark Russell, a trainer that works within the world of “natural dressage,”  uses the principles of Tai Chi in his teaching.  He also holds clinics, and has produced interesting videos and articles on using Tai Chi to improve your riding.

Too often, I see tense riders that have forgotten how to breathe.  These riders have a center of balance that is very high in their shoulders, and unfortunately their horses mirror that tense energy and are often also not breathing properly.  Mark Russell uses the visual of a pyramid to explain this concept.  When we are tense as riders, not breathing properly and not using our core effectively, we are essentially shaped like an upside down pyramid.  Our breathing and balance are up in our shoulders, we are too “in our head”, and being that top heavy does not center us on our horse.  When you breathe in and out of your chest, it is very hard to take deep breaths.  Too much thinking, and not enough feeling exacerbate this imbalance.  The goal is to be an upright pyramid.  This is a much more grounded, balanced position, and really allows us to ride our horses in a much more harmonious way.  But how do you accomplish this??

The first step is to focus on bringing your energy down below your belly button.  This is bringing your energy down into your “core.”  While standing unmounted, practice loosening your shoulders, softening your knee and hip joints, and taking deep breaths that expand and contract your belly below your belly button, at approximately where the top of your hip bones are. Focus on the image of an upright pyramid, and feel the centering weight travel lower in your body, so that your stability mimics that of the base heavy pyramid.  Mark Russell describes this process as rooting – and think of it in just this way – imagine roots extending out of your feet that figuratively ground you.  As you practice this on the ground, have someone try to gently push on you before and after you focus on bringing your center of balance lower.  You should feel a marked improvement in your stability.  This improvement will carry over into your riding as well, it might take a bit of practice for it to feel natural, but in time it will.

The first step in improving is awareness.  You will find that if you just pay attention to staying softer, and breathing deeper while you ride, you will improve.  Remember to always check the tension in your joints, keep them open and supple.  Breathe deep and low, and focus on bringing yourself out of your “thinking brain” and into your “feeling body.”  Imagine that you are not just centering yourself “over” your horse, but rather center yourself “through” your horse, deep into the ground.  Remember that the horse will mirror the energy, breath and softness of the rider or handler.  So if they are tense, you are likely tense as well, and vice versa.  As with anything, the proof is in the pudding, so just play with these concepts, and I bet you will feel a difference.

One of the benefits to improving our breathing, balance and core control is that then we can use intentional tension as a tool through the concept of a half halt.  For years, the term “half halt”  was this mystical concept that my instructors always barked at me, but never bothered to truly define.  I never asked any of them what they really meant, because it was always implied that I should know.  I know that this was a failing on my part in my role as a student, but honestly, I am not sure that my instructors would really have been able to explain it to me anyways.  When I ask my students now if they understand what a half halt is, how it is executed, and what the purpose is, I get many responses, but most are muddy at best.  Most often, people describe the half halt as a momentary squeezing/tightening of the reins accompanied by leg aids.  Some emphasize that it is the inside leg and outside rein, some define it a bit differently, but most definitions miss the true point of a half halt.

Most commonly seen in the world of dressage, the half halt is a skill that is used by all good horse people, whether they know it as such or not.  At its simplest, it is a momentary resistance by the rider against the horses energy.  It can be used to rebalance a horse before executing a new movement, it can be used to recycle the energy of the horse and lighten the forehand and add more energy to the hindquarters, and it can be a call to attention to the inattentive horse.  The half halt MUST start in the core though, for it to be truly effective.  I teach my students to engage their core momentarily.  If you are doing this properly, you will feel taller for a moment – so sometimes it is helpful to imagine that you are pushing your belly button upward and outward, without hollowing your back.  This moment of resistance must be just that – a moment.  Continual bracing will get you nowhere, but you can repeat after releasing.  Depending on how sensitive the horse is to this aid, the resistance can travel down your outside arm, or both arms, into the reins and to the horses mouth.  If you execute your half halt in this
way – from your core to the horses mouth versus just pulling on the reins, you are staying grounded and centered and can utilize that strength to accomplish more with less.  I find that if you approach your half halts this way, you will need less of the “driving aid” that so often accompanies most definitions of the half halt.  Play with your horse, and you can find the exact formula that works for you, but remember that it must come from the core first, and must be momentary.  This momentary application of tension, or resistance, will only be effective if it contrasts with your regular riding position, which brings us back full circle to why it is so important to breathe deep, center yourself, stay soft and ride!

 

 

Still too bracey in the poll, because I was not centered enough, and was relying too much on my reins…

 

Lessons From Ace

 

As promised in the last article I wrote about my “perfect” horse Ace, here are some more specific lessons I have learned from him. Hopefully everyone can find some pearls of wisdom in here that will also apply to their horses.

 

Go With Your Gut, It’s Your Horse –  As horse owners, we rely on a team of experts to assist us in making safe, healthy and smart decisions for our horses.  Veterinarians, Farriers, Trainers and Friends are all part of that team.  Advice is good, especially if it’s from a professional that you trust, but ultimately you must make the call.  Over the years, I have found myself in situations where my gut feeling has contradicted advice of others regarding Ace.  When I have not followed that gut feeling, I have almost always regretted it.  Educate yourself about all things horse as much as possible, this learning will become experience, which will allow you to look at problems critically.  Good veterinarians, farriers and trainers welcome questions, bad ones don’t.  In my experience, it’s that simple.  As an owner, I believe it is your responsibility to ask those questions, even if you feel that you are being a pest.  It is also very important to know your horse and their behavior intimately.  Your team relies on you to know those finer points – the little observations are often the most important part of the puzzle…  There have been times with Ace where I have stood back and watched uncomfortably as a trainer or farrier does something that I didn’t agree with.  It is hard to interrupt and speak up when someone with “authority” is supposedly helping – but your horse is counting on you to do that.  Nonetheless, we are all human, so at least make sure you learn something from those moments…

 

Know Your Horses Conformational Faults – Every horse is crooked due to stiffness, bracing and conformation. Learn that crookedness so that you can help correct it.  Articles by Dr. Deb Bennett are very helpful resources.  As you watch your horse move, and as you ride, note whether your horses head turns in one way more than another. Does he come in on a circle more one way that the other?   Can he step under himself with his inside hind leg equally in both directions of travel?  Does he have trouble picking up the canter lead one way?  Does he lean on your aids in any way?  These are all clues – so notice this stuff, and then figure out the reason.  Utilize your vet, farrier and trainer to help you.  Learn about equine anatomy and gaits.  If you do all this, working with your horse will become much easier.

 

Feet First – Most horse owners take their horses feet for granted.  Ace came to me with terrible feet – due to a combination of neglect and conformation. I quickly realized that I needed to educate myself as much as possible about hoof anatomy, trimming, and hoof care if I wanted to help him overcome his soundness issues.  As I noted earlier, a good farrier welcomes questions and observations.  You see your horse everyday.  They see him once every few months.  The farrier-owner relationship should be full of dialogue, and the more knowledgeable you are about everything hoof, the better this dialogue will be.  There are many styles of trimming and shoeing out there, and it is your responsibility to find the one that works best for your horse.  Beware of farriers and trimmers that are “religious” about only one style or product.  A competent farrier or trimmer has many tools in their toolbox, to suit the huge range of horses and disciplines out there.

 

Remember To Release!! – Ace is an extremely sensitive horse that used to be very explosive.  That is because I was trapping him with my aids because I didn’t know better. He used to rear so high that I thought we were going to flip over backwards.  Always give your horse an “out.”  Remember that horses learn from the release of pressure, not the application of it.  Pressure can come from many things including most obviously – your reins, your legs and your seat/balance.  But it also can be your voice, your body language, the swinging of a rope, the angle of your body, an obstacle, etc… Start thinking critically about how many forms of pressure you are applying to your horse, and why.  Make sure your actions are intentional. Conversely, also make sure that you are not releasing unconsciously – which will just reinforce unwanted behavior.  Remember that adjusting your reins, changing the tempo of an aid, looking away, stopping to regroup all can be interpreted by the horse as a release.  So set yourself up for success before you start…

 

Quiet Hands, Quiet Mouth, Get an Independent Seat-  Work on your balance as much as possible.  If you can take lunge lessons on a safe horse with a good trainer, do it.  That is the best way to get an independent seat.  Strengthen your core, and educate yourself about your breathing (or lack thereof!) Bring your breathing down from your shoulders, deep into your core below your belly button. If you can stay balanced on your horse without relying on your reins or gripping legs, your communication with him will be much more clear.  Then you can stay off of his mouth.  Most horses will lean into unyielding pressure, so if you are always clamped down with your reins, they will mimic that intensity of pressure and constantly pull on you.  I know that it is scary to let go though – I struggled with it for years.  Your horse WILL slow down and quiet down if you stop trapping him with your aids.  Try softening your outside rein, and redirecting your horses energy into serpentines and bends, rather than fighting with them…  Quiet hands does not mean giving up control.  It means that you are creating consistent boundaries, and then asking your horse to meet you there.  Stay steady and quiet with your contact, and remember to release when they soften.

 

Vary Your Exercise Routine – Rote ringwork is the easiest way to sour a horse.  Cross training is so important, both physically and mentally.  Whatever your discipline of choice is, try something new.  Trail riding can help develop natural impulsion and improves any horses walk.  Cavalettis help regulate cadence and help lift the back.  Basic classical dressage principles will help your horse learn to carry themselves better.  Groundwork will strengthen your communication and bond with your horse, and in my opinion, is absolutely essential.  Versatlity and obstacles encourage your horse to think independently, and will test your horses responsiveness.  And above all, cross training should help you remember that riding and working with your horse should be enjoyable.  If it isn’t, figure out why.

 

Redheads Are Sensitive! – I try to avoid stereotypes in general, both in and out of the horse world, but some are true.  Ace is a chestnut with a flaxen mane and tail, and chestnuts are definitely more sensitive both physically (bugs bother them more) and mentally (they demand quiet riders).  So are grey horses.  Bays are usually more steady eddy.  Some breeds are more sensitive than others (Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Morgans).  Owning up to these realities make your life easier, so just do it…

 

Ride Other Horses – Over the years, as I have been able to ride more and more horses, I have gained more and more tools to apply to Ace. You have to approach every horse differently, and those subtleties are great opportunities for learning.  Also, if you need to improve your own riding or horsemanship, get on a more trained horse and do that under the supervision of a good instructor.

 

Keep Trying, and Be Patient With Yourself and Your Horse –  Stick with it, and your efforts will pay off.  Try to not lose your temper both with yourself and your horse.  We all have bad days and good days, so just roll with it, and learn from your mistakes.  Your horse will forgive you, that is why they are so special.  Become more aware of your emotions and it will be easier to control them.  The more zen of a state you can be in when working with your horse the better your results will be.  Take some lessons from a martial art or meditation.  Learn to redirect your and your horse’s emotions rather than squashing them.  And above all, always remember to breathe.

 

Nagging is a No No

Nagging is something that we all do at one time or another, both while working with our horses and just in life in general.  One of the riding instructor’s most important jobs, in my opinion, is to help their students remember to not nag. First off, how do I define “nagging?”  To me, it comes down to unclear repetitive use of the rider’s aids with little or no release.  For example – someone who clucks repeatedly at their horse as they trot around is nagging.  If you squeeze with your leg at every stride you are nagging.  If you seesaw on your horses mouth continually with your hands you are nagging. All of these actions do one thing, they dull the horse to your aids and cause them to brace.

In the world of horses I see nagging arise for two reasons.  First, riders often are trying to be kind or nice to their horse by applying aids more gently – but end up having to apply them repetitively to hold their horse up.  Second, riders often nag from a position of being unaware.  Most riders that nag aren’t even aware they are doing it, as it has become second nature.  And guess what?? Your horse has tuned you out too, so they are not aware either.  Nagging riders create dull horses, and dull horses are a real bummer to ride.  Why do you think a lot of school horses are dull?  Because they have essentially tuned out because of repetitive nagging and inconsistent aids.  All the time I see people pass judgement about horses that have gotten to this point who claim that it is the horses personality, not a learned behavior.  Granted, I do think that some horses are more prone to becoming especially dull – but I often find that it is actually really sensitive horses that become dull as a protective mechanism.

So lets return to our two reasons for dullness.  First – the rider is trying to be “kind” with their aids.  In my training, I have a very specific sequence of aids.  First, I ask with my voice.  Second, with my physical aids – i.e leg, reins seat etc… Third, I follow through with a tap of the whip. If the horse doesn’t respond, I up the ante until they do.  That might sound harsh, so let me clarify two things.  First, it is imperative to be very cognizant of whether you horse understands what you are asking.  It’s not fair to up the ante if your horse simply doesn’t understand what you are asking.  Second, upping the ante doesn’t mean beating a horse.  If that triple sequence of aids doesn’t work, there is likely confusion or pain on the horses part and you must address that before proceeding.

STAY TUNED FOR PART TWO – ADDRESSING SOLUTIONS AND RIDER AWARENESS – I.E INTENTIONAL RIDING